What kind of projectile and how much powder do u use for your most accurate load?

You didn't state what type of black powder rifle you had. For my T/C 50 cal inline I use T/C's 240 grain mag express sabots with two fifty grain pellets for 50 calibers rifles. I have shot a few deer with that combination and have yet for any to not go down!

It depends on the gun. slow twist 1 in 64 generally shoots roundballs best 1 in 48 likes conicals. As to powder load you need to start at the minimum and work up until you get consistant groups.

I'm guessing you are talking about the wolf you were asking about in a previous topic. If so mine works best with 100 grains of powder and any powerbelt bullet. I use 2 of the the pyrodex 50 grain pellets and powerbelt platinum bullets with remington 209 primers. One thing with the pointed tip bullets though is you need to get an adapter for you ramrod else you will pull the tip off the bullet

I just got a new CVA Wolf inline. I have been using a T/C Hawken since I was a boy. I use 90 grns of FF black powder a .490 round ball and a patch. I have never shot an in-line yet. Just wandering what you guys use? The main reason I wanted to try an inline is because my hawken shooting round balls dosent make it all the way through a deer and it makes it hard to find a blood trail. I want a load that will go all the way through a deer. I would think a liter round would have more speed.

I don't know how far you are shooting deer but 90grs of FF should pass through deer shot broadside at 75yds and I don't what caliber you're using but a .50 cal rd ball weighs 177 grs. A lighter weight projectile will not have as much penetration as a heavier bullet at the same speed given that the bullets are of the same diameter and ballistic coefficient. To put it simply if you want complete pass throughs you need either a heavier bullet ie; conical, or more velocity(more powder) the CVA Wolf will require both but you can achieve the same results by simply using pure lead conicals in your T/C Hawkin so long as it has 1-48" rifling as mine does , I understand that the early models did have a few with 1-66" that required round ball but the 1-48 twist does really well with conicals. My .54 T/C really shines with 110grs of FFF and a 425gr Hornady Great Plains Bullet and I've always wanted to try this gun on elk and moose but alas I live on wrong side of the Mississippi for that endevour so deer,Black bear and hogs will have to suffice. For a starting load if using pellets try two 50gr pyrodex pellets(100grs) and a 250-300gr powerbelt this will be a good place to start. you may want to try different powders and bullets for accuracy.

Both me and my dad have shot a few deer with a .50 cal hawken using a round ball and patch. Have never had a compleet pass through usually ends up just under the hide on the oposit side of the deer. I thnink I want to try some whare between 220 and 250 grn bullet and some whare between 100 and 150 grns of powder.

The wolf will work fine with either 100 or 150 grains of powder, but my experience is not much difference between 100 and 150 grains of powder. when I first got mine I shot a bullet, similar to the powerbelts called a sabertooth. It was a hollow point 220 gr. It caused alot of damage. and went all the way through. funny story about those though they don't fly as straight or as far as the powerbelt platinum aerotips, but they do alot of damage. My buddy borrowed my muzzleloader and he shot a small buck in the weeds, but he shot at the wrong end. Instead of shooting thruogh the shoulder he shot through the hind legs. He brought the deer to my house so we could hang it up and harvest the meat off of it and I noticed the odd place for the bullet hole, I asked him about it. He said it was in the weeds he saw it stick his head up and then back down. It walked a few feet and stopped. So he shot where he thought the shoulder was and it wasn't until he got to the deer he found out he was wrong. The bullet did so much damage on its way through the deer it only managed to crawl on its front legs about 20 foot before it lost too much blood to continue.

It doesn't matter what others use for a load. You need to spend some trigger time at the bench my friend. I envy you, enjoy.

Boonie Rat is on the right track. Every gun has its own "personality" so to speak. Different guns work best with different combinations of powder and shot. My NEF Sidekick likes 100gr of 777 pellets with a 245 gr powerbelt hollow point. Other guys here on the BB swear by loose powder and shockwaves. Yours may like one of these or something altogether different. It takes a little trial and error to see what combination works best in your smoke pole. Good luck to you and be safe.

you really dont need the maximum load in your muzzleloader im shooting 90 grains of all american pioneer powder or shockeys gold loose powder in my t/c 54 caliber white mountain carbine im using t/c maxi hunters or powerbelt bullets in my cva wolf which will shooty 150 grains im using a 295 grain powerbelt bullet not the aero tip 100 frains loose powder same as b4 with both guns im getting good groupings less than 2 inches from a caldwell solo sled you cant tell the difference between the t/c and the cva both are accurate and one cost a h ll of a lot to buy ive got my great grandson and grandson shooting theblack powder guns both are 9 years old hank k

Find a group of ML enthusiasts that shoot in your local area/club. Most, if not all, will be glad to help you. Many suggestions listed here are great starting points. As stated, you need to feed you own weapon with different loads and componants to find what it works best with. Some guys that may help will give you a couple shots of powder and patches that they use that may differ from what you have; provided theirs will work in yours. Then you need to shoot, shoot, and shoot some more; then take a lot more shots. ENJOY!!!!

I am aware that all guns are different and may shoot different loads differently. I was only wandering what you guys shoot so I had someware to start.

I'd like to know the gun your going to use before I can give an appropriate answer. unless you have a 75 cal Brown Bess, my 75 load is of no value.

In my Knight Bighorn which is not converted to the 209 primer I started with 80 grains of 2f Goex and a 240 grain Hornady xtp and a regular Harvester sabot. That combo did give me good accuracy and I shot several deer with it. I played with lighter bullets but gained nothing accuracy wise. I then tried some heavier bullets and got better results I finally ended up with an 85 gr powder load and a 300 gr xtp in a harvester crushrib sabot and that is my current hunting load. I have recovered two of these bullets and they were the deadliest mushroom in the woods expanding from 45 cal to over 64 cal. Those two bullets were frontal shots that traveled about 3 feet front to back, not the best shot but in those cases the only shot. I am not an advocate of the 150 grain powder loads especially when I can get the accuracy and penetration with just over half the powder and recoil.

You need to test the gun with various loads of the same powder and bullet and then switch to another brand of powder and bullets and try them until you find the best load.
What works in one gun does not work in another as far as a tight shot group goes.

I have used a T/C 50 cal hawken for 16 years and just got a CVA 50 cal Wolf Mag. Havent shot the Wolf yet I bought a couple kinds of power belts and some T/C sabots to try out when I finally get the chance to get out. It has been so dawg on hot out and when its not hot out its raining. and with work actually being bizzy havent been able to get out yet. Hope to get out before bow season in September. I have mainly used patch and ball with between 80 and 90 grns of eather FF black powder or pyrodex RS.

My most accurate load of all my guns was 70 grs RS pushing a .015" patched .490" ball in my CVA Hawken .50". I literally used to bust golf balls with that load. It started by accident. I knew the load was accurate, and when a friend was trying to hit a golf ball atop a 12 ga hull at 50 yds with his 1911, I snapped off a shot with the Hawken after he'd missed with his final shot. When the smoke cleared, the ball and hull were gone. I went down there to discover I'd shot the hull out from under the ball, and the ball was on the ground right where the hull had been. So, I put the ball on the berm so I could see it, backed off 50 yds, took more deliberate aim and pegged the ball. (Ever seen a golf ball explode?) Next time we were out, I did it again and again with balls we found lying about the "range" and then started throwing the balls so I could try hitting them at different ranges. Almost routinely, if I took deliberate aim and thoought about the trajectory, I'd hit the ball of come so close the dirt would move it. Sadly, that barrel was ruined in a "gunsmithing accident" and I have yet to get the replacement barrel or any of my other guns to shoot that well.

I have a American Knight with a thumbhole stock. I shoot a 240 gr sabot with 100 gr of american pioneer powder, comes premeasured in a tube, at a 100 yds place shot side by side. Also a very clean powder.

Also has a 209 prime kit added to it