Hunting Forum

well you should look for a good used one then the animals we hunt deserve our respect and deserve a one shot kill and from what you are trying to tell us is the scope is junk

Like I said......

And the rut in February is Late Archery//Muzzleloader, not General Gun.  So my .270 is done for this season.  Oh, and I need not only one shot one kill (that should always be the assumption) I also need an instant kill (shoot, deer hit, deer drops dead) because having to track one down, given low energy levels plus lungs that have, since cancer #1, only recovered to about 53% of normal (was 50% the test before last), having to track one down and then drag it out could be a major problem after the adrenalin ran out (about the time I got back to my car).

Were cool the rule of thumb is buy the best glass you can afford the so called experts say you should spend as much on the scope as you spend on the gun I have struggled with this a lot because after selling out for a new rifle or handgun it takes time to rebuild the garage money to buy the scope and you know how it is as soon as you get the gun you lust have to shoot it that's why I try to save up enough to buy everything I will need so I can shoot it as soon as I can

Posted By healey on 31 Jan 2013 10:53 AM
Were cool the rule of thumb is buy the best glass you can afford the so called experts say you should spend as much on the scope as you spend on the gun I have struggled with this a lot because after selling out for a new rifle or handgun it takes time to rebuild the garage money to buy the scope and you know how it is as soon as you get the gun you lust have to shoot it that's why I try to save up enough to buy everything I will need so I can shoot it as soon as I can

Try that when you've been stuck living on Social Security Disability since your first cancer......  Talk about having to save up to buy something new....  I was thinking about driving about 1/4 mile up the road to Taco Town for a taco salad for lunch...had to check my wallet to see if I had 5 $1 bills.....  Luckily, I do...exactly 5....

Just for what it's worth:  I'm giving my .270 a new nickname:  Scissors.

Sorry to here that hope you have a handle on it only wish you the best I no I am on a fixed income also its tough

There are a lot of us on here who are either disabled or retired and living on limited fixed incomes.

Thats for sure RT .

I have an older Reimington 700 ADL .270 with a Bushnell 3x9x40 scope on it.  With most scopes.  Your adjustments will be 1 click will be a 1/4 " adjustment at 100 yards.  So, obviously.  4 clicks will be 1 inch at 100 yards.  The crosshairs your describing are called duplex cross hairs.  I have mine set at 1 1/2 inches high at 100 yards with reloads with 130 Speer bullets.  This puts me dead on at 225 yards.  I have found that Federal 130 ammo shoots to the same point of impact as my reloads.  With this setting.  I don't have a problem with taking a shot with a dead on hold out to 300 yards on deer.  At 400 yards.  A hold high on the shoulder will still take a deer threw the heart.  At 500 yards.  If you put the the point of where the hair goes from heavy to fine.  Where that hair comes to a point into the fine hair.  A hold with the point on the top of the back will result in a heart shot.  This a little bit of Kentucky windage that I learned shooting at ram  silhouettes at 500 meters with my 270.  If you get to know your rifle and where its shooting at different ranges.  And, how to use the scope you already have.  You really don't have to get one of those fancy mildot scopes.  They are nice. I'll give you that.  They do take a lot of the guess work out.  IF ,  The mildots match to the cartridge your shooting.

For the most part, when you buy a package gun ( rifle/scope combo ) they put the low end scope on them. Depending on what kind of hunter a person is it can be sufficient for them or they need to upgrade. The gun you have sounds like a 700 synthetic, with what I think is a Bushnell scope on it, the scope would probably sell for about $40 to $50. If you're not happy with the scope, save up and replace it. The kind of hunting you say you are doing, the scope on the gun should be fine. There should be paperwork in the gun box that tells you how to sight the scope and how to return it if there is a problem with it. Most scopes biedng made now carry a limited lifetime warranty. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. Remember, the action is the heart of the gun, the scope is the eyes. As a rule, optics usually get better as the price goes up. Lower end scopes don't have the same low light image as higher priced scopes.

Thanks, everyone.  Yes, I'll be buying a new scope (not sure which one) for Scissors (that's the new nickname for my .270) betweem now and its next deer season (this month, for the rut, is muzzleloader or, if I was there yet, archery).

I just got an e-flyer from Natchez today out of Tennessee. They have blemished scopes on sale from Burris. I personally own almost all Leopold scopes, but my Dad had a Burris Scope and really liked it. I am sure that others on here can tell you if this is a decent scope, but based on my Dad's experience I would chance it. The scope that caught my interest is a:
Burris Blemished 3.5-10X50 Fullfield II Riflescope Plex Reticle Matte
BU200171B
Reg $341.80
Sale $119.95

That seemed like a good deal to me. I would call Natchez and find out what blemished means, but I doubt the deer will notice the difference. Here is the link to the one I was looking at

http://www.natchezss.com/product.cf...2013Burris

Jack

Posted By jboshoven on 05 Feb 2013 09:55 AM
I just got an e-flyer from Natchez today out of Tennessee. They have blemished scopes on sale from Burris. I personally own almost all Leopold scopes, but my Dad had a Burris Scope and really liked it. I am sure that others on here can tell you if this is a decent scope, but based on my Dad's experience I would chance it. The scope that caught my interest is a:
Burris Blemished 3.5-10X50 Fullfield II Riflescope Plex Reticle Matte
BU200171B
Reg $341.80
Sale $119.95

Thanks, but I'm already tapped out for this month, and am going to be buying a new burner for brewing and replacing my stolen propane tanks, plus a high-security lock/chain or something along those lines to stop the next thief looking for drug money.....  I want to get back to brewing once the season is over this month....the rest of what I can spend will be for fishing (again, adding fishing with a rod/reel (from either the Shalimar bridge a half-mile from here, and/or the Destin bridge, about 10 miles from here, along with my cast net---have to use my dock net, 10.5 foot 11 lb, if I remember correctly...long time since I made it...with the handline from my retired bridge net).  Like venison, assuming I get one or more deer during the rut (last bit of the season starts Saturday), fish in the fridge and/oor freezer is also meat I don't have to buy.  :-)   And if I'm out wiht the rod/reel, the cast net will be in my trunk...ready.  :-)

Check the Scope/Optics Forum and you will find a number of budget priced scopes and the company's that sell them.

Thanks, I'll do that (but not this month...no money).

On another topic, if anyone has (or has had) an Ameristep Stealth House (aka Gunner) popup ground blind, I'm looking for some serious help taking this blasted thing down (right now, I'm looking at ingress/egress with the blind expanded to one step short of completely open (i.e., still flat), because I can't get it to fold properly.  The thread is in Hunting Gear & Equipment, at the following URL:  http://www.huntingclub.com/connect/...aft/195028    Part of the probllem is the only decent instructions on takedodwn are for similar, but not equal, Ameristep blinds.  The instructions (and videos) for the Gunner blind basically show the results of each step, but not how to get theree....  My brain, since cancer #1, doesn't process that anymore (one of three brain tumors is to blame for that).

Thanks