In 2012, I bought a Remington 700 ADL .270 (from Wally World, if that matters) with a ascope.  The only useful information on the scope is 3-9x40.  Looking through the scope, it has two crosshairs, no dots, no lines, nothing.  The crosshairs are thick from the outer edge until they get close to the center.  What I'm looking for (for an Android-based ballistics calculator) is the brand, model, and reticle (that's what I'm calling the crosshairs, right?).  I'm guessing that matters for corrections for distance, wind, etc.

The scope is the stock scope that came with the rifle.  Does anyone know the details for it?

Thanks,

   --jim

Posted By SteelCandy on 30 Jan 2013 01:01 AM
Any chance to take a close up pic of the scope from both sides and get the turret caps in the pics? Sometimes the turret caps have a brand icon that can be recognized.

I just checked the scope again (3rd time).  Looking with a magnifying glass from end to end, side to side, and top to bottom, no logo, no text, no markings, except for the dial (3--9) and "3-9x40".  That, I'm sorry to say, is it.  I also checked the lens caps.  Nothing.  No engraved information, no text, no markings other than those.

Posted By jboshoven on 30 Jan 2013 01:16 AM
I looked at the Wal-Mart web site. According to a Wal-Mart associate, it comes with a Bushnell scope. That is probably correct, but as SteelCandy said, post a picture especially of the turret covers. Also, there may be writing around the bell of the scope that may list the manufacturer. If it is a Bushnell, I believe they call the cross hairs you described (assume when you say two lines, you mean perpendicular to each other that cross in the middle) Multi-X.

jack

Sorry, I meant to specify that I was referring to the crosshairs.  Chemobrain will do that to you.  And by turret covers, I assume you meant what I refer to (camera terms) as lens caps, right?  I don't know what part of the scope is the bell, but I'm guessing that you mean the main lens or the eyepiece.  Regardless, I just went over every square mm for the fourth time, looking at the scope, through, in, and around both lenses (including the threads on the outer side of each...don't know what it's for, but there are no markings of any kind there.  Nothing.  No engraving, no text, no icons, no threads that look a bit off from the rest, no markings on the lens, nothing looking through the scope except crosshairs, no marking on the various screws, rivits, etc......  Numbers 3--9 for adjusting the view and on the eyepiece end, "3-9x40".  That is all there is.  I do, now, seem to recall that I was told Bushnell, but nothing beyond that.

Oh, and I looked in this ballistics calculator app, and there are two Bushnell scopes, and neither is either Multi-X and neither matches the crosshairs (reticle?).

Back probably around 0400 CST  //  1000Z  (normally hit the sack at 0000 hrs and wake up 4 hours later).

I looked up Bushnell Multi X reticle and got pictures.  It's a match.  And based on a mis-match of a few scopes, I gather that doesn't help ID the scope itself, but like I mentioned right before going to bed last night, it's not in the ballistics program anyways, AND I'll be adding my muzzleloader (with fiber optic sites) too, and there's no listing for that, either....

Thanks for the help, everyone,

   --jm

Posted By rthomas4 on 30 Jan 2013 10:43 AM
The bell is the objective lens end, turret covers are what you remove to adjust the vertical and horizontal cross hairs. I believe the scope is the Bushnell Sharpshooter, which is at the bottom end of their line up. I also believe that if you purchased this gun in 2012, you actually have a model 710, since The Blue Book of Gun Values does not show a model 700ADL available with a scope package, nor does it show a model newer than 2006.

I just checked what I saw on the barrel last night:  "Remington Model 700"
I also remember reading in one of the sniper forums (got there via
Google) that Remington had released a new version that improved
something, but I can't be certain.  Oh well.

As for the scope, if it's the Bushnell Sharpshooter 3-9x40 Multi-X, it's
not quite the same as mine, but could just be a different production run
or something like that.  First, and I know my terminology here is
incorrect, the dial that you use to adjust the view on mine is round,
with nothing sticking out.  The one I just pulled up has what looks like
a knob for a finger or thumb.  Second, mine doesn't have any icons, etc.,
while the one I just pulled up has a B on the side of the scope.  Pic:
(http://www.natchezss.com/images/products/BH763944R.jpg)

I can easily imagine that an OEM scope would be slightly different, so
that probably is it.

Btw, I do have a question about the Multi-X reticle:  what on it do you
use when adjusting your shot for wind, pressure, distance, etc.?  Or do
you just estimate (aka guess)?

Thanks,
   --jim

Posted By Spike2 on 30 Jan 2013 07:49 PM
Gt,if Your scope has only two intersecting lines, and if you adjust it so you hit 3" high @ 100yds. it should give you a 250yd zero. the rest is up to you. AKA "kentucky windage" If you want a scope to plug your ballistic info into your'e gonna have to pay out some buckeroos for ballistic turrets and mil dot reticals or similar designed scope. With your rig, you should be able to hit anything within a REASONABLE range. You can find info on wind drift on any specific cal. bullet weight, use a rangefinder and proof it for yourself.

That's what I was afraid someone was going to say.  And I DO want a
proper Mil-Dot scope, but right now, can't afford one.  Next season,
I hope.  But until then, the farthest shot (assuming I would be able
to SEE that far out there, and that's a big assumption) would be
about 180 yards, and that would be shooting right into the woods
across from a wide-open area, where I might risk hitting another
hunter.  Completely unsat, unless I could positively verify that
nobody was in there, even if in a blind I can't see (in other words,
IMHO, it's not possible...that's how I was taught by my uncle when I
was about 13 and was handling rifles and shotguns for the first time.

So "Kentucky windage" (I'd forgotten that term) will have to do for now.
Hell, like I said, my muzzleloader has fiber optic sights (and I think
I'm honestly more comfortable with them---so far, my scope has been a
royal PITA because the stock is a bit too long for me, and I have to
lean WAY forward to get the right view into my scope (without getting
black "walls" around one side where I should be seeing the target).

Oh, and after using the ballistics calculator with real values for
what I could provide, the correction is given in (along with others)
inches to the lef/right and up/down, so it's still helpful at longer
ranges.  That is, IF Powerbelt will send me the ballistics info for
use with 24" barrels instead of 28".....  Unless I completely
mis-read something, barrel length affects muzzle velocity which
affects the ballistics math.  There's probably math to convert it
on my own, but I don't know it, so it's not much good to me.

Thanks,
   --jim

I understand that.  But as I said, at most areas on the Eglin AFB range, you're more likely to be shooting less than 100 yds, if that.  There just isn't that much space between treelines, and many of those can be too dense to shoot through (I don't think I added that bit befire).

Wow...a lot to cover in this one.  I'll try and keep it relatively
short....  As for shot distance, yeah, out at Eglin's public land,
you're basically in-between woods and swamps.  The swamps, I'm told
by one of the guys from the Jackson Guard office (who, again, manages
the Eglin public areas) who is out there every day, are too thick to
even think about trying to get through, whether there's any water there
or not.  There are some areas (I love to hunt two of them---and the
others are too far from roads my little Honday Civic si can drive on
(the majority of the range roads are beach sand).  Thing is, I like
to be back, away from the clearing, in the trees (even after I get
my new popup ground blind), so seeing out that far, at that flat of
an angle (almost directly to my left), is tough.  So there are longer
shots, if you're more out in the middle of the open field.

As for the eye doc and the objective, with my budget, I'm far more
likely to just check them in the store.  And for the stock, it is
a bit too long, and yes, the scope is also all the way forward.  I
won't be buying a really expensive scope, no matter what (can't
afford to do that), but I do want a decent one.  The crosshairs in
mine don't even line up with themselves if you're not looking through
at the exact correct angle.  I see something more like this at some
angles (on any of the 4):

[Oh well, I tried.  the ASCII art lines up right in gvim, but whwen I
paste it here using HTML and PRE and /PRE tags, it still hoses it.  It
was showing one of the four (top, right, bottom, left) parts of the
crosshairs, with any one of the four split---vertical lines split
horizontally, and horizontal lines split vertically, e.g., ___---.)

Then when my eyes are looking straight through, it lines up normally.

Thanks,
   --jim

Posted By healey on 31 Jan 2013 10:11 AM
I own at least 20 Leupold scopes and have never had an issue not that you can't if it was me I would send it back to Leupold they have a iron clad guaranty full know fault lifetime warranty. I knew a guy who ran over his scope and they gave him a new one anyway I was just saying when you buy a combo the scope is usually junk . I did see savage is offering combo's with Nikon's on them low end but Nikon's none the less

Posted By healey on 31 Jan 2013 10:36 AM
Sorry I was talking to rthomas4 . No I think you should chit can the scope and buy a better one

That'd be the plan for next year...no further use for it again until November, except for very close range if some armed idiot breaks in with the (obvious, if he's armed) intent to shoot me and wants to test my aim and how quickly I can work the bolt between the chest and head shots.....  It's on the list (the new scope, that is).   :-)

Like I said......

And the rut in February is Late Archery//Muzzleloader, not General Gun.  So my .270 is done for this season.  Oh, and I need not only one shot one kill (that should always be the assumption) I also need an instant kill (shoot, deer hit, deer drops dead) because having to track one down, given low energy levels plus lungs that have, since cancer #1, only recovered to about 53% of normal (was 50% the test before last), having to track one down and then drag it out could be a major problem after the adrenalin ran out (about the time I got back to my car).

Posted By healey on 31 Jan 2013 10:53 AM
Were cool the rule of thumb is buy the best glass you can afford the so called experts say you should spend as much on the scope as you spend on the gun I have struggled with this a lot because after selling out for a new rifle or handgun it takes time to rebuild the garage money to buy the scope and you know how it is as soon as you get the gun you lust have to shoot it that's why I try to save up enough to buy everything I will need so I can shoot it as soon as I can

Just for what it's worth:  I'm giving my .270 a new nickname:  Scissors.

Thanks, everyone.  Yes, I'll be buying a new scope (not sure which one) for Scissors (that's the new nickname for my .270) betweem now and its next deer season (this month, for the rut, is muzzleloader or, if I was there yet, archery).

Posted By jboshoven on 05 Feb 2013 09:55 AM
I just got an e-flyer from Natchez today out of Tennessee. They have blemished scopes on sale from Burris. I personally own almost all Leopold scopes, but my Dad had a Burris Scope and really liked it. I am sure that others on here can tell you if this is a decent scope, but based on my Dad's experience I would chance it. The scope that caught my interest is a:
Burris Blemished 3.5-10X50 Fullfield II Riflescope Plex Reticle Matte
BU200171B
Reg $341.80
Sale $119.95

Thanks, I'll do that (but not this month...no money).

On another topic, if anyone has (or has had) an Ameristep Stealth House (aka Gunner) popup ground blind, I'm looking for some serious help taking this blasted thing down (right now, I'm looking at ingress/egress with the blind expanded to one step short of completely open (i.e., still flat), because I can't get it to fold properly.  The thread is in Hunting Gear & Equipment, at the following URL:  http://www.huntingclub.com/connect/...aft/195028    Part of the probllem is the only decent instructions on takedodwn are for similar, but not equal, Ameristep blinds.  The instructions (and videos) for the Gunner blind basically show the results of each step, but not how to get theree....  My brain, since cancer #1, doesn't process that anymore (one of three brain tumors is to blame for that).

Thanks