I'm looking to buy a new rifle, I grew up hunting a shotgun zone in MN for years (moved North) and now looking to start hunting with a rifle for Moose, Elk and Bear along with Deer and was wondering what a universal caliber rifle for these game would be??

30-06 with either a SP for deer and a good bonded bullet for the larger animals. There are a variety of bullet weights for the 06, which makes it suitable for all but big bears in Alaska and Canada. I would go with 150 or 165 grain bullets for deer and 180s for the larger animals.

If I had the money and the opportunity to use it, I would consider investing in the Remington 700 XCR with X Mark adjustable trigger in .300 Remington Ultra Magnum. Their new Power Level Ammunition basicly is like shooting a 3 1/2" 12 guage shotgun. Power Level 1 is really close to the tried and true .30-06, Power Level 2 is really close to the versitile .300 Win Mag, and Power Level 3 is the .300 RUM. I would use the Power Level 1 150gr for Deer and other light skinned game, Power level 2 probably in 165gr for Elk and thicker skinned game, and Power Level 3 in 180gr or 200gr for the big bears and the like. Just my opinion and don't have experience with either as I live in a shotgun-only state.

universal caliber???..............................but since you said bears !!!

.338 Win Mag 

"Some say it is our all time greatest elk, moose, and grizzly cartridge, without being totally ridiculous when used for hunting deer size game."

"Whether or not the .338 Magnum is actually a better elk and moose cartridge than the .300 Magnums, or even the 7mm Magnums, will long be debated, but when large carnivorous game becomes the topic of conversation all such arguments quickly end."

Reloading Bench

Sd, he's only talking about black bears though...

30-06 will work fine and be gentler on your shoulder than a magnum

I have hunted black bears with bow before (no luck) but if I had the rifle I would take that. I've been told the 7MM would be good universal rifle, but wanted to check with some more people. Just reading from you guys it looks like either a .300 Mag or a 30-06 would work also work. What ever the caliber its going to be a Remington rifle.

30 06 works for all round hunting . From deer to to elk in my hunting . And bear

Okay, black bears..........................

Varied ammo - .30-06

Longer shots - 7MM RM

Mostly Moose, Elk and Bear - .300 WM

What do you consider longer shots? 125, or 200? Remember Im used to a shotgun range of 75 yards being a long shot.

With elk you're talking 250 and up to 500+...if you dare.

Thanks for all the info, Im thinking of going with a 7MM RM or a .300 WM (depending on price and feel), now its time to start shopping. Thanks and good shooting!

Maybe this list will help, depending on your budget; 


                                            

 

http://www.ableammo.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=117270

 

http://www.ableammo.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=117249

 

http://www.ableammo.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=113410

 

http://www.ableammo.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=87768

 

http://www.ableammo.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=99595

 

http://www.ableammo.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=90826

 

http://www.ableammo.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=86358

 

http://www.ableammo.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=86703

I would suggest a Thompson Center Encore rifle with a 30-06 barrel to start with,and then add other calibers as you see fit! I have one in Pistol form with a 30-06 pistol barrel,.50cal muzzleloader rifle barrel,223 rifle barrel,and a 300 win mag rifle barrel.
I'm saving for a 7mmo8 rifle barrel,and maybe a 260Remington pistol barrel !

You can't go wrong with a 30-06 in whatever rifle you choose !
I like to shoot the 165 grain bullets for everything I hunt,including elk and moose.Nosler partitions for the biggest game,and Hornady spire points for deer size game!

Didnt read all of the posts but cut to the chase and get a 416 Rigby.   Will certainly take the animals on your list!

That 416 Rigby ought to take ANY animal on ANY list, LOL!

POO and I believe in our .416Rigby's !!!

Posted By TOM IN TENNESSEE on 12 Nov 2010 11:18 AM
POO and I believe in our .416Rigby's !!!

and believing in what you have in your hands is a big part of the battle.  Since he has narrowed it down to 7mmRemMag and .300WinMag, I think he will be fine

I LOVE my .338 Win!!!!!

I LOVE my .338 Win!!!!!

I LOVE my .338 Win!!!!!

I like my 338 Win mags too, but a 300 Win mag is best all around IMHO. I recently acquired a 300 WMag Browning X Bolt at a RMEF banquet, a sponsors firearm, with gingerbread grip caps and action engraving. I took it out immediately ans shot some 308 caliber Tubbs Final Finish to fire lap the barrel. The X bolt is a nice rifle, 26 inch barrel, and decent trigger to. The scope mount is real solid with four screws and Leupold has made mounts and rings that work well with the X Bolt. I also got a Browning scope (Bushnell Elite) in 30 MM tube with the Rain guard feature, The stock on the X Bolt is a little radical, but I found it to be very functional, nearly a flat fore end allows solid but relaxed contact. My hand loads have Hornady Interlocks in 190 grain, develop just shy of 3000 FPS and are pretty accurate from the bench and in a supported position with my Harris bipod. The recoil is pretty mild in my experience with Mags and can say that now after shooting about 100 rounds with this rifle. The super soft pad and stock design probably have something to do with that. I also own a 300 WSM and like the round ,but case size seems to limit bullet selection to lower weight 308 bullets. Taht is the only real downfall that i have experienced with the short mags. If you do not mind handloading, I would also recommend a Remington Model 7 in the 7 MM RSAUM. You can find them for under $500 and they are solid rifles in a great round too.

DLH,

You really like your .338 Win huh ?!?!

DARN, and I don't have one!
I jump all the way from 7mmMag to .375RUM.....good news is that gives me lotsa calibers to aquire in between......don't need them but what has that to do with it?

I did not like my .338 WM, but I LOVE my new .325 WSM!

.270 win all the way!!!

With all the animals on your list, I side with the .338 Win Mag.

I don't have one because I carry a .338-06, but that is a choice only if you handload. You give up 50 to 100 yards of range to the .338 Win Mag, but you only get the recoil of a .30-06.

To hell with the arm cannons the 7mm's and the 300's if your good w/ a shot placement a .270 will do ya perfect. Easier on the wallet and the shoulder IMO! BUT If your looking for something in the .300 range I would go w/ a .308 same kick as the .30-06 BUT a hell of a lot more accurate (Being that it was used for years as a military sniper rifle load for years, and still is by most services) .270 and the .308 good flat shooters, the .30-06 is a volkswagon dropping SOB after shooting this gun for years I'll never own another one in my lifetime !

This is just my opinion take it for what it is worth and do the research yourself and see just how close to the mark I REALLY AM !

i've shot a whole whack of moose and elk and bears in alberta and most were with one or two shots. as i practice a lot in the off season i find any of the magnums rifles wallet emptying and shoulder pounding pain in the butts. my .270 does any job i ask of it out to 300 metres(yards). i don't shoot anything farther than that. the optimum round for a .270 is the 140gr. and i am partial to the boat tail. the only other calibre i'd use is the 30'06 with a 165gr bullet again in boat tail. the .270 is a necked down 30'06 so thier recoil is about the same and they are both great calibres. there must be way bigger moose elk and bears than i've been shooting to justify the magnum cannons being touted. but to each his own. bullet placement beats calibre for consistant killing. good hunting to all. 4 months to bear season. patience patience.

i've shot a whole whack of moose and elk and bears in alberta and most were with one or two shots. as i practice a lot in the off season i find any of the magnums rifles wallet emptying and shoulder pounding pain in the butts. my .270 does any job i ask of it out to 300 metres(yards). i don't shoot anything farther than that. the optimum round for a .270 is the 140gr. and i am partial to the boat tail. the only other calibre i'd use is the 30'06 with a 165gr bullet again in boat tail. the .270 is a necked down 30'06 so thier recoil is about the same and they are both great calibres. there must be way bigger moose elk and bears than i've been shooting to justify the magnum cannons being touted. but to each his own. bullet placement beats calibre for consistant killing. good hunting to all. 4 months to bear season. patience patience.

jpool, or any one else that cares to respond for that matter. I noticed you mentioned "fire lapping", Sense most of my guns were bought second hand please excuse my ignorance but is that the same as "proper beak in" I am asking because I am about to purchase a new 270 and if barrel break in is necessary I'd like to do it properly. I would appreciate some input from any/all of you.

YO JLOWE hay just take it easy on any guy I say don't go out to see if you can melt a barrel down! I'd go through a box a day at the most at a range, Anyways just remember the more rounds ya pump through any piece of metal you will notice bullet drop over time ( meaning at one sitting not over the course of years LOL) fluted barrels and bull barrels are better at holding up to abuse on the range but THIS is just my opinion !

dkern1, Ok, so IYO as long as I don't start right out with some kind of "hopped up" handloads, or over heat the barrel, its not that big of a deal? I've only bought two new rifles a NEF handi-rifle in 243 with a bull barrel, and a Wetherby Vanguard 243 in stainless, that I sold the NEF to buy. Neither got any special break in and both still shoot well (I sold the NEF to a family member he still loves it). I was just wondering if I got lucky or common sense was a good nuff process. Thanks for the answer.

IMO the only thing you must do to the average hunting rifle.  Before you shoot it clean it good. Shoot a half dozen rounds. clean again. Than shoot more 20 or so clean good. Than clean good after every hunting or range trip.
Shooting well with a hunting rifle is mostly practice, practice, practice. 

TLM, Thanks, I planned on the clean first, then I would normally clean after initial sight in, Usually 6 to 10 rounds, So far I've allways had good luck with my (cheapo) barska boresighter. Then of course I always clean after season at least. I really like bore snakes and since they make it so quick and easy I have found that they help me to clean more often. before I put the gun away I use a string with an oil soaked patch to protect the metal as well (then boresnake before shooting). I was just a little worried cause I've read a few articles lately about "seasoning" and "breaking in" barrels and a new rifle is a BIG investment for me, so I got kinda nervous. Again thanks for the input.

For what it's worth...................   
             


http://www.rifle-accuracy-reports.com/barrel-break-in.html

Or maybe this is what you prefer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRRahHX9Zkg



Do whatever you want with your NEW gun ! 

SDOWLING Ok.... I think I will probably stay away from the second technique. lol I did notice that on the second one there was a link to a Larry Potterfield vid and I think that sounded pretty reasonable (and he wasn't trying to pitch Midway USA products). I knew that you can do allot of damage with a cleaning rod and thats why I have been using a string to pull patches with either solvent or oil through, do you have any opinions or vids with opinions on why bore-snakes are either good or bad. Thanks for the help by the way.

I have two (2) snakes for each gun I own;

One is for solvents (including copper solvent).

One is for oil (light).

Because I clean my guns regularly with snakes, I only need a through cleaning once a year.
 
Cleaning after each use with a snake makes the "whole process" easy !!!

Somethimes, I'll give one or two of the guns I have shot a lot to my smith for their annual cleaning.




More barrels are ruined by cleaning rods than any thing else.

Only way to clean your barrel "safely" with a rod ! 

http://hunting.about.com/library/weekly/aa000729.htm

Cool, thanks. I only have one per caliber but soak them in dish soap (cuts grease) every now and then to clean em up. One thing I noticed on the "speedy Gonzales" vid was they say to pull the brush both ways, I thought that was a no-no when I do use a rod and brush I only go from breach to crown,I drop the rod in from the crown end then screw the brush on at the breach, and use a tapered guide to protect the crown from the rod.

Oh, one more possibly dumb question. If you buy a T.C. or Vanguard That has been factory shot to confirm accuracy, does that mean its already broke in?

Jlowe,

Buy a second one - as you suggest they clean up easy.

Store them in baggie's between cleanings.


Breech to crown is the only way to fly....you are Correct.


I have three things done to (pretty much) all my new rifles by a professional gunsmith;

#1 Basic trigger job - most important thing you can do to improving accuracy !
 
#2 Hand lap the barrel - second most important thing you can do to improve accuracy (helps in the break-in process).

http://www.shootingtimes.com/gunsmi...el_200805/

#3  Replace recoil pad with Pachmayr Decelerator pad - third most important thing you can do to improve accuracy.

http://www.pachmayr.com/D752B.php


Note: nothing is more important than PRACTICE to improve accuracy !!! 

#1 I'm covering " to my satisfaction" by either buying the Vanguard or the T.C. Venture, both have adj. triggers that are good enough for me. #2 Thanks I had no idea what that was. And #3 the Vanguard has a very forgiving recoil pad, the T.C. mite need a pachmayr though, (I like the pachmayr I put on my Red Hawk, way better for me than the wood factory grips.) And the practice part I am definitely in full agreement there. Thanks for the help. By the way do you by chance know if the stock off a 270 Vanguard youth mod. would fit on a 243 Vanguard Full size. I can do some work to free float the stock coming off the 243 to clear the 270 barrel if thats a factor. I'm just wondering if the action part should clear, I'd like the 270 to have a shorter barrel and the 243 a shorter stock is why I'm wondering. Thanks for your help either way though.

69,

That Venture is what I would buy if I was looking right now...........................great price/ value (the rest goes towards better glass) !

Shorter LOP I understand................I also have all my rifle (& shotguns) stocks cut down a hair (I'm 5'6").

Why do you want a shorter barrel ?

You'll loose some velocity.

Yep, 5'6'' here to so the shorter LOP was the big thing and I'm thinking the barrel is only 2" shorter so the weight loss is off set by loss in vel. if I understand it right thats what 400 fps, and I was thinking ( I know, there is my mistake) that wouldn't hurt the energy of the 270 that much at shots inside of 350yds, my personal comfort zone. Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong in that thinking. The main reason for the step up from 243 to 270 is the addition of elk and bear do to moving out here to Az. and the weight reduction would be nice while hiking these mts. and I just don't enjoy shooting guns that kick my arss, so magnums are out.

I perfer to choose lighter rifles (synthetic,stainless) with 24" barrels and carry a bogg-pod tri-pod for a rest.

Your thinking is sound as long as you maintain an appropriate range & and proper bullet construction, you'll be fine !

I'm thinking 22" to 24" barrel, and always use a bi-pod (less weight again), and I'd like to stick at that 8 lbs total as well, which combined with the fact the T.C. is made here is why I leaning towards it. The Vanguard is in the running because of how well my 243 shoots and feels, combined with the possibility of the stock switch. I mite want the full size on the 270 just cause I don't like getting "scope bit", not a problem on the 243. It will be a couple more months before I buy it though so I would like any input you have in the mean time. You've already helped allot though so thanks. Oh, what about the factory shot rifles being "broke in" already? Any input? My E-mail is listed on my profile if you would prefer to converse that way as well.

I hand carry a Tri-pod, NOT attached to my rifle. I have Harris bi-pods on my smaller calibers, but I don't carry them for any great distances.


After having the barrel lapped by a professional gunsmith (unless done by the manufacture) then follow a barrel break-in procedure (clean after 10 shots for the first 100 rounds).

Getting "scope eye" has more to due with the scope's eye refief (look for 3"-4") and being mounted correctly.

I hand carry my bi-pod as well ( 24" to 62" vanguard model) I just ment less weight than a tri-pod, Do you know if T.C. does the firelapping? If not what does that usually cost? Yep I realize better scopes/ eye relief will help with not getting scope bites, so does not using magnums. I have a tendency to crowd the scope and a longer stock helps over-ride that bad habit, so does crowding the scope forward on the guns that fit me better. Thank you sir for your help.

Jlowe,

Hand lapping and Fire lapping are different. 

                            

This explains it pretty well................. 

http://yarchive.net/gun/barrel/lapping.html


BTW - TC Venture barrel is very good, but still hand lapping will help +/- $65.

http://www.tcarms.com/technology/5r_rifling.php

Whoops, that was just me misreading your post. Sorry bout that. Also I may end up investing in a tri-pod, since the shots out here tend to be "longer" and the local range is set up so I can actually practice out to 1000 yds. not that I would shoot that far at game but I believe in the "practice shots twice as far as you intend to shoot".

I would go with a 30-06

JEEZ!! What??? You read the last few posts?